How to Plant a Tree
Balled and Burlapped trees come with the root balls tightly wrapped with burlap and twine, nails, or sometimes wire. Fine and coarse roots are contained in the ball reducing transplant shock. These tend to be heavier and more expensive but have a better survival rate.
Container/Potted trees are the midrange option in terms of price. One disadvantage is that the pots can cause roots to circle which may cause girdling. To avoid this, roots should be teased apart or they must be cut in two places at planting time.
Bare root trees are dug straight out of the ground with no soil around the roots. They are inexpensive and lightweight but extra care must be taken to ensure the roots stay moist.
Dig your planting hole wider 2-3 times the width of the root ball with sloping sides. Do not loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole. The hole depth should be just enough so the bottom of the root ball can sit on undisturbed soil and the root collar will be at the level of the surrounding soil- click here to learn how to identify the root collar. Place the tree in the bottom of the hole on undisturbed soil with its stem vertical. Always handle the tree by its root ball or container; otherwise you may inflict trunk damage or separate the trunk from the root system. It is important never to drop the tree, which could loosen or break the root ball, nor should you bend the roots to make them fit. If they are too long for the hole simply dig it wider. If there are any damaged roots, cleanly cut them away.
Remove all packing materials from the root ball including the wire cage, burlap, twine, or plastic container and cleanly cut away any circling roots that are exposed to promote good growth.
Once the tree is in place, backfill the hole with the original soil mixed with up to 25% composed organic matter. No other soil additions or amendments should be used! It's a good idea to remove large rocks and break up large soil clumps to reduce air pockets. Gently compact the backfill soil around the rootball but do not over compact. Keep your tree vertical during this process. When the backfilling is complete, no roots should be exposed and no soil should be placed on top of existing root balls, only the sides. Immediately and generously water the tree to settle the soil.
Next, apply a 2-4 inch deep and several feet wide layer of organic mulch over the backfilled area. We recommend wood chips, or shredded bark mulch. Mulch helps maintain soil moisture, reduce weeds, improves soil structure overtime, and reduces the likelihood of damage to the tree by lawn mowers and weed-wackers. It's important to keep the mulch at least 2 inches away from the trunk of the tree to avoid root or trunk decay. Furthermore, avoid placing layers of mulch in excess of 4 inches deep as it can lead to lexcess moisture in the root zone and low soil oxygen levels.
Fertilizers should not be used at the time of planting as studies have shown that they don't stimulate root growth. Fertilizing should only be done after the tree has established in its new planting site, which can take two to three years or longer.
Pruning following planting should limited. Limit your cuts to diseased, dying, broken and damaged limbs. For more information on proper pruning techniques click here.
Staking of newly planted trees should be avoided when possible. Some trees, however, cannot stand upright without support or to protect young trees from vandalism or high winds. Use a broad, smooth and somewhat elastic material to attach the tree to the stake. Staking materials should generally be removed after one growing season in order to prevent chances of girdling injury.
Water is by far a tree's greatest need at planting time for up to two years after the transplanting. The reason for this is that a tree loses the majority of its roots during the transplant, which reduces its ability for water uptake. Until it can establish a more robust root network, they must be thoroughly watered. The amount of water used is determined by environmental and seasonal factors, but as a general rule you want to make sure that all the soil near the tree and one foot below it stays moist, usually every other day during the tree's first summer or more during periods of drought. However, it is possible to overwater the tree, so be careful not to cause the roots to drown.